Guide to Vitamin C

If you speak to any dermatologist or skin expert, it is likely that they'll tell you the three most important items to incorporate into your skincare routine is Vitamin C, a retinoid derivative (e.g. retinol) and SPF. 

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that plays a significant role in promoting healthy and radiant skin. It comes in various forms and concentrations, offering a range of benefits for different skin types.

What are the different forms of vitamin C?

There is a wide variety of Vitamin C and delivery systems which can affect the efficacy, price and stability of a formulation. 

If we start with the basics, Vitamin C can be classified into two groups: active and inactive forms. The active form (or "pure form") is l-ascorbic acid, while the inactive forms are known as vitamin C esters, which include sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), and tetrahexydecyl ascorbate (THD Ascorbate).

As the concentration of a Vitamin C increases, so does the price - and while more is not always better the sweet spot for any form of Vitamin C is concentrations between 10-20%. Anything beyond 20% may be irritating and don't offer significant additional benefits to the skin. 

What are the benefits of using l-ascorbic acid on the skin?

L-ascorbic acid is a potent form of vitamin C that offers powerful antioxidant protection, stimulates collagen production, and helps even out skin pigmentation. However, it has a short shelf life, can be unstable and requires careful storage and handling to maintain its efficacy. 

Who should use l-ascorbic acid and who should avoid it?

L-ascorbic acid is best suited for individuals with normal and oily skin. People with dry and sensitive skin should slowly build tolerance to l-ascorbic acid, as it may cause irritation or an adverse reaction.

Biological ascorbic acid found naturally in botanicals such as Kakadu Plum has been shown to provide the benefits of lab made L-ascorbic acid, in gentle concentrations without the irritation. 

Vitamin C derivatives or esters offer stable alternatives and possess the same potent benefits however the trade-off is that Vitamin C derivatives are more expensive. 

What are the benefits of using vitamin C esters on the skin?

Vitamin C esters, such as SAP, MAP, and tetrahexydecyl ascorbate (THD Ascorbate), are more stable and lipophilic than l-ascorbic acid, which means they penetrate the skin barrier more effectively. They also offer similar benefits, such as antioxidant protection, collagen production stimulation, and pigmentation evening.

1. Tetrahexydecyl ascorbate - Offers the benefits as ascorbic acid such as photo-protection, collagen synthesis, and evens out complexions. THD ascorbate penetrates the dermis deeply and is well tolerated by sensitive skin types however is usually the most expensive form of Vitamin C. 

2. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) - Ideal for acne-prone skin, SAP offers antioxidant, collagen-boosting, and pigment-evening properties while also regulating sebum production and reducing acne inflammation.

3. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) - The most stable vitamin C ester, MAP is suitable for sensitive skin types as it is the least irritating. It helps boost collagen and fade pigmentation but may not offer strong antioxidant properties.

How can I incorporate vitamin C into my skincare routine?

Choose the form of vitamin C that suits your skin type and specific needs. Start by using it every other day and gradually increase the frequency as your skin adapts. 

Make sure to store your vitamin C products properly to maintain their stability and efficacy. Don't forget to use sunscreen daily, as vitamin C can make the skin more sensitive to the sun.

With anything, patience and consistency is rewarded when it comes to Vitamin C and differences usually start appearing after 28 days.